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Plate Decoder

How to check a used car before you buy

Do these in order, and most bad cars get ruled out before you leave the house.

Step 1: get the VIN from the plate

Get the VIN, year, make, model and trim. Vehicle information only.

Vehicle information only. We do not provide owner information. Not affiliated with any DMV or government agency.

1. Get the VIN

Ask the seller for it. If they will not give it, or the listing only shows the plate, look it up from the plate and state. A seller who will not share a VIN is telling you something.

2. Check the VIN matches the listing

The year, make, model and trim decoded from the VIN should match what is advertised. A “fully loaded” trim that decodes as the base model, or a different year, is the first red flag.

3. Run the free checks

4. Consider a history report

For title brands from every state, odometer readings and past total-loss records, use a report from an approved NMVTIS data provider. It costs a few dollars to a few tens of dollars, which is cheap next to buying a flood car.

5. Check the car in person

FAQ

Used car check questions

How do I check if a car is stolen?
Run the VIN through NICB’s free VINCheck. It shows whether the vehicle has been reported stolen and not recovered, or reported as a salvage vehicle by participating insurers.
Can I check a used car with just the plate?
The plate gets you the VIN, and the VIN is what every other check uses. Start with the plate if that is all the listing shows.
What is a title brand?
A permanent mark on a vehicle’s title for things like salvage, rebuilt, flood or lemon. It changes what the car is worth and whether it can be insured.
Is a free VIN check enough?
The free checks cover recalls and theft. For accidents, title brands across states and odometer records, a paid history report from an approved NMVTIS provider is worth the money on any serious purchase.

Start with the VIN

Plate and state in, VIN and vehicle details out. No owner data, no email gate.

Look up a license plate